After the Hailstorm: The 7-Day Checklist (Before the Door-Knockers Win)
Day 1: photograph the hailstones next to a ruler or coin and walk the property documenting from the ground. Days 2–3: get a roofer you chose to inspect. Then decide about a claim with real information — before the out-of-state door-knockers decide for you. Hail damage isn’t an emergency unless water’s coming in; the scams that follow hail are the actual urgent threat. Here’s the week, in order.
Day 1: Document While the Evidence Exists
- Photograph hailstones with a scale reference (ruler, coin, golf ball) before they melt — stone size is the single best predictor of roof damage and the cornerstone of a disputed claim. Note the exact date/time; weather services log hail swaths, and your photos tie your address to the event.
- Ground-level damage walk: dented gutters/downspouts, damaged window screens and siding, dings on the AC condenser fins, pocked fences, shredded plants, cracked skylights. Soft-metal damage (gutters, vents) is the proxy adjusters use — if metal took hits, shingles likely did too.
- Check for active leaks in the attic and ceilings — water coming in converts this from “checklist” to the roof leak playbook (tarp + mitigation now).
- Stay off the roof. Hail-bruised shingles aren’t reliably visible from the ground anyway — that’s what the inspection is for.
Days 2–3: Get Your Inspection (Not Theirs)
- Call a local, established roofer you selected — reviews older than the storm, verifiable address, license where applicable. Many inspect free or for $100–$300 (inspection guide).
- Ask for photo evidence of every claimed hail hit (“bruises” — dark spots where granules crushed into the mat), not a verbal “it’s totaled.”
- The door-knockers will arrive first. The complete defense kit: storm chaser red flags, no same-day signatures (the scripts), no deductible “waivers” (a crime in Texas and fraud everywhere), and no AOB paperwork — ever — at the door.
Days 3–7: The Claim Decision (Math First)
| Question | Why it decides everything |
|---|---|
| Real damage confirmed by your roofer? | No bruising = no claim = no premium consequences |
| Repair estimate vs. your deductible? | $2,500 damage on a $2,000 deductible isn’t a claim worth filing — compare against roof repair / replacement costs |
| RCV or ACV on your roof? | Hail-belt insurers increasingly attach ACV roof endorsements — the difference is five figures |
| Separate wind/hail deductible? | Often 1–2% of dwelling coverage in hail states — check the declarations page |
If you file: be present for the adjuster’s inspection with your roofer’s photo report in hand, point out the soft-metal evidence, and expect the two-check RCV flow (ACV first, recoverable depreciation after completion). Hidden decking damage found during tear-off is a supplemental claim — your roofer documents it before covering it up.
The Hail-Belt Reality Check
If you’re in Dallas, Denver, Oklahoma City, Kansas City, or Minneapolis, this is a recurring event, not a one-off: consider Class 4 impact-resistant shingles at the next replacement (insurer discounts often 5–30% in hail states, though some policies then exclude cosmetic damage — ask first), photograph your roof annually so “pre-existing” arguments die fast, and keep every roofing invoice forever.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if hail actually damaged my roof? Ground evidence first: dented gutters, downspouts, AC fins, and window screens. Confirmation requires an on-roof inspection for shingle bruising — granule-crushed soft spots — by a roofer you chose, with photos of every claimed hit.
Should I file an insurance claim for every hailstorm? No — file when documented damage meaningfully exceeds your deductible (which in hail states is often a separate 1–2% wind/hail deductible). Claims for sub-deductible damage give you premium history with zero payout.
How long do I have to file a hail claim? Commonly 1–2 years depending on state and policy — Texas policies often require “prompt” notice with suit limits, Florida now uses 1 year. Don’t let the deadline pressure you into the first door-knocker; do let it stop you from sitting on real damage for three years.
What size hail damages a roof? Quarter-size (1”) starts damaging aging shingles; golf-ball (1.75”) damages most roofs; anything larger damages nearly everything. Stone photos with scale are why the Day 1 ruler shot matters.
Are impact-resistant shingles worth it in hail country? Usually — Class 4 shingles cost 10–25% more but draw insurance discounts in most hail states and survive storms that total standard shingles. Confirm your insurer’s discount and any cosmetic-damage exclusion before buying.
Last updated: June 10, 2026. Sources: Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety (IBHS) hail research; III (wind/hail deductibles, impact-resistant shingle discounts); NOAA storm event records; state claim deadlines. The scams that follow hail are covered in our storm chaser guide.