12 Questions to Ask a Painter Before You Hire
Before hiring a painter, confirm insurance and any required license, get the prep work itemized in writing, lock the exact paint product line (not just “premium”) into the contract, confirm two full coats, and verify EPA lead-safe certification for pre-1978 homes. Prep and paint quality determine how long the job lasts. Here are all 12 questions — with the good and bad answers to listen for.
Credentials Questions
1. Are you licensed and insured? Why it matters: Ladder work means injury risk on your property; uninsured crews expose you. Licensing varies — some states license painters, many don’t. Good answer: “Here are insurer-issued certificates for liability and workers’ comp, and our license number.” Verify both — see how to find a good painter and the FTC’s hiring checklist. Bad answer: “We’re fully covered, don’t worry” with nothing in writing.
2. Are you EPA Lead-Safe certified? (pre-1978 homes) Why it matters: Federal law — the EPA’s RRP rule — requires certified firms and containment practices when disturbing paint in homes built before 1978. Good answer: “Yes, here’s our firm certification number — you can verify it on the EPA site. We use plastic containment and HEPA cleanup.” Bad answer: “Lead’s not really a problem” or proposing to dry-sand 60-year-old paint.
3. Do you use your own crew or subcontractors? Why it matters: Employee crews mean consistent training and clear insurance coverage. Subbing isn’t disqualifying, but accountability gets murkier. Good answer: “Our own employees, supervised by a foreman” — or, if subbed: “Here’s who supervises and whose insurance covers them.” Bad answer: Evasiveness about who actually shows up.
Prep, Paint & Process Questions
4. What prep work is included — exactly? Why it matters: Prep is where paint jobs are won or lost, and where lowball bids cut corners. Demand it itemized: washing, scraping, sanding, patching, caulking, priming — each listed. Good answer: “Power wash, scrape and feather-sand failing areas, spot-prime bare spots, caulk gaps, two finish coats” — in writing, per Painting Contractors Association industry standards. Bad answer: “Standard prep included.” That phrase has paid for a lot of peeling paint.
5. What paint brand and product line will you use? Why it matters: This is the classic bait-and-switch. Every major brand makes builder-grade ($25/gal) and premium ($70+/gal) lines — a quote saying “premium Sherwin-Williams” can legally arrive as the cheapest contractor line. Get the exact product line in the contract. Good answer: The specific named product and sheen, written into the quote, with you receiving the empty cans or receipts. Bad answer: “We use quality paint” with no product named.
6. How many coats are included? Why it matters: “One-coat coverage” claims rarely survive real-world color changes; two full coats is the durability standard. Good answer: “Two full finish coats, plus primer where needed — primer is not a finish coat.” Bad answer: “One coat covers fine with this paint.”
7. Which surfaces are included — walls, trim, ceilings, doors? Why it matters: Scope surprises are the top source of painting disputes and change orders. Good answer: Every surface listed separately with its own line item. Compare against interior painting cost benchmarks. Bad answer: A single lump sum for “interior painting.”
8. Who moves furniture, and how do you protect my home? Why it matters: Some painters move furniture; others require rooms emptied — a big labor difference for you. Protection standards (floors, fixtures, landscaping) vary widely. Good answer: “We move and cover furniture, mask floors and fixtures, and tarp landscaping on exteriors.” Bad answer: Finding out on day one that the crew won’t touch your sofa.
9. What does daily cleanup and end-of-job cleanup look like? Why it matters: Multi-day jobs mean living with the work. Good crews leave a safe, tidy site nightly. Good answer: “Tools staged neatly, walkways clear, full cleanup and haul-away at the end, leftover labeled paint left with you for touch-ups.” Bad answer: No answer — expect drop cloths and ladders in your hallway for a week.
Warranty & Pricing Questions
10. What’s your touch-up policy and workmanship warranty? Why it matters: Paint failures (peeling, blistering) show up months later. A real warranty — 1–3+ years, in writing — separates pros from chuck-in-a-truck operations. Also ask how post-job touch-ups are handled. Good answer: “Two-year written workmanship warranty; we come back for touch-ups within 30 days free.” Bad answer: “We stand behind our work” with nothing on paper.
11. Can I get an itemized written quote? Why it matters: You can’t compare lump sums. Itemized quotes expose what each bidder includes — and omits. Good answer: A line-itemed document you can stack against typical house painting costs using our bid comparison guide. Bad answer: A number texted after a five-minute glance — no walkthrough means no real quote.
12. What’s the payment schedule? Why it matters: Painting is labor-heavy with modest materials, so big deposits are unjustified. Norms run 10–33% down (some states cap deposits by law), a possible mid-job draw on large projects, and final payment only after your walkthrough. Good answer: “Small deposit, balance on completion after you’ve inspected the work.” Bad answer: Half or more upfront, in cash — see contractor deposit norms.
Red Flags in Their Answers
- Vague about prep (“standard prep”) or coats (“one should do it”)
- Won’t name the exact paint product line in writing
- No written quote, no walkthrough, no warranty
- Dismissive about lead paint in a pre-1978 home
- Suspiciously low bid — typically funded by skipped prep
- Large upfront cash demand or “today-only” pricing pressure
A bid that’s dramatically below the others isn’t a bargain — labor costs are broadly similar everywhere (median painter wages run $23–$25/hour per the Bureau of Labor Statistics), so a far-cheaper bid is cutting prep, coats, or paint quality.
Frequently Asked Questions
What should I ask a painter before hiring? Confirm insurance and licensing, get prep itemized (washing, scraping, sanding, priming), lock the exact paint product line into the contract, confirm two coats, verify EPA lead-safe certification for pre-1978 homes, and get the warranty and payment schedule in writing.
Why is asking about prep so important? Prep is what makes paint adhere and last — and it’s invisible once the paint goes on, making it the easiest place for a lowball bid to cut corners. Vague prep answers predict early peeling.
How do I avoid the paint-quality bait-and-switch? Don’t accept “premium paint” — require the exact brand, product line, and sheen written into the contract, and ask to keep the empty cans or receipts as proof.
What payment schedule is normal for painters? A 10–33% deposit, possibly a mid-job draw on large projects, and final payment only after your completion walkthrough. Large upfront cash demands are a major red flag.
Does my painter need lead-safe certification? If your home was built before 1978, yes — federal EPA RRP rules require a certified firm for any work disturbing old paint. Verify the firm’s certification on the EPA website.
Last updated: June 2026. Lead-safety requirements per the EPA; hiring guidance per the FTC; wage data per the BLS. For informational purposes only.