Three kinds of adjusters can show up on one claim — and only one works for you. A staff adjuster is the insurer’s employee. An independent adjuster is a contractor hired by the insurer (the name misleads — they’re still the insurer’s side). A public adjuster is licensed to represent you, typically for 5–15% of the payout. Knowing who’s who changes how you handle every conversation.

Who’s Who on Your Claim?

Staff adjusterIndependent adjusterPublic adjuster
Works forThe insurance company (employee)The insurance company (contractor)You
Who pays themInsurerInsurerYou — % of the payout
Typical fee to you$0$05–15% of the settlement
When they appearMost routine claimsCatastrophes / overflow (they swarm after hurricanes)Only if you hire one
Their job, bluntlySettle the claim accurately per the insurer’s estimateSame, at volumeMaximize your documented claim

The phrase that confuses everyone: “independent” adjusters are not independent of the insurer — they’re independent contractors for the insurer. The only adjuster contractually on your side is a public adjuster.

When Is Hiring a Public Adjuster Worth 5–15%?

Worth it:

  • Large, complex losses — house fires, major water damage, hurricane claims with structure + contents + living expenses (ALE) all tangled together
  • Lowballed claims — insurer’s estimate is far below real local repair costs (sanity-check against our roof, foundation, and plumbing guides)
  • Denied or stalled claims where you have documentation but no traction
  • Rule of thumb: claims under ~$10,000 rarely justify the fee; six-figure claims usually do — industry and academic studies have found represented claims settle meaningfully higher, even net of fees

Not worth it:

  • Small, straightforward claims — the fee eats the gain
  • As a substitute for simply filing a supplemental claim when one line item was missed
  • When the “public adjuster” is really a contractor wanting to negotiate — that’s the AOB trap, and unlicensed claim negotiation is illegal in most states

How Do You Hire One Safely?

  1. Verify the license — public adjusters are licensed by your state’s insurance department; check the NAIC/state lookup for status and discipline
  2. Know your state’s fee caps — Florida, for example, caps public adjuster fees at 10% on declared-emergency claims (20% otherwise); several states cap or regulate fees
  3. Get the fee agreement in writing — percentage, what it applies to (new money vs. whole payout), and cancellation terms
  4. Beware post-storm door-knockers — the same 48-hour vetting as for storm-chaser roofers applies; real PAs are busy after disasters, not desperate
  5. Hire early if you’re going to hire — a PA who documents the loss from day one beats one brought in to fix a botched claim file

How Should You Deal with the Insurer’s Adjuster?

You don’t need to be adversarial — you need to be documented:

  • Be present at the inspection and point out every area of damage; walk the property with your own photo list
  • Ask for the itemized estimate (often built in Xactimate) — you’re entitled to see what was and wasn’t included
  • Never guess on recorded statements — “I don’t know yet, I’ll confirm” is a complete answer
  • Put disagreements in writing with your contractor’s competing itemized scope attached
  • If the gap stays wide: invoke appraisal (most policies have a dispute clause) or bring in a public adjuster

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the adjuster my insurance company sends on my side? They’re professionals, not villains — but they work for the carrier, and their estimate is the carrier’s opening position. Treat it as a draft to verify, not a verdict.

How much does a public adjuster cost? Typically 5–15% of the claim payout, regulated and sometimes capped by state (Florida: 10% on declared emergencies). No legitimate PA charges large upfront fees.

Will hiring a public adjuster make my insurer retaliate? No — representation is routine on large claims, and carriers handle PA-represented files daily. Claims may take somewhat longer because more is being documented and negotiated.

Can my roofing contractor negotiate my claim instead? In most states, no — negotiating claims for compensation requires a public adjuster (or attorney) license. A contractor can meet the adjuster and explain the repair scope; “handling your claim” beyond that is the AOB/unlicensed-adjusting red flag.

What’s the difference between a public adjuster and an attorney for a denied claim? A PA documents and negotiates value; an attorney litigates coverage. Lowballed claim → PA first. Flat denial on a coverage question, or bad-faith conduct → insurance attorney (most work on contingency).


Last updated: June 10, 2026. Sources: NAIC consumer guidance on adjuster types and licensing; state insurance department license lookups; Florida public adjuster fee caps (Fla. Stat. § 626.854). This article is consumer information, not legal advice.